EverythingWINE

I was delighted to pour a flight of three aromatic white wines at the Everything Wine tasting bar last Sunday to celebrate the first day of spring. I was a bit apprehensive, though, that many of my tasting-bar customers would be less than excited by the offering of all white, off-dry wines. But the intense fragrance and vibrant, mouthwatering, palate of wines poured from unassuming, Alsatian bottles, pleasantly surprised many folks who might normally shy away from this style of wine.

I’ve noticed that a majority of consumers drink only red, or very little white, and almost everyone, it seems, is afraid of a touch of sweetness in their wine. I’m not sure if it’s the memory of sugary, flavourless, mass-produced American White Zinfandel circa 1980, or the surprisingly explosive sweetness of that first sip of quality icewine, but it seems to me there is a general reluctance to try off-dry, or, as many people mistakenly call them, ’sweet’ wines. An off-dry wine, unlike a sweet wine such icewine, late harvest wine, or port, has just a touch of residual sugar, and, if made to my liking, a good amount of mouthwatering acidity to balance the sweetness; indeed, this is precisely the difference between an exquisite off-dry Gewürztraminer, and an unpalatably cloying wine of the 80s blush variety. Acidity in off-dry wine is kind of like a squeeze of lemon in a recipe; it brightens the flavours of the wine, adds a bit of tartness to balance the sweetness, and provides a clean finish to a round palate.

Now, to answer the obvious question I’ve neglected thus far: What is an aromatic wine? Wines that are considered ‘aromatic’ exhibit an intense nose, or fragrance, of flowers, fruit, and spice that come from the grape itself. Ageing and vinification, or the winemaker’s tinkering, by contrast, produce what we call the bouquet rather than the aroma of the wine. For instance, the aroma of a Syrah might exhibit characteristics of luscious black fruit and white pepper, and its bouquet might reveal complex layers of vanilla and forest-floor from ageing in oak and bottle respectively.
Some wine varieties (or grapes) considered aromatic are Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, and Pinot Blanc, although wines from these grapes do not always exhibit the intense nose characteristic of an aromatic wine, and sometimes wines can be aromatic even if they’re not made from grapes that are typically considered ‘aromatic.’

The wines I poured on Sunday, however, were all exceptional examples of aromatic wines, and perfect for welcoming the spring season, with their bright aromas of fresh fruit and flowers. Each was slightly more off-dry, or sweet than the last, and the first wine I poured was JoieFarm’s recently-released 2009 A Noble Blend. This boutique winery in Naramata, BC, Canada produces a slightly different Alsatian-style blend each vintage, and the 2009 blend is mostly Gewürztraminer with some Pinot Gris, Pinot Auxerrois and Riesling. On the nose, the domination of Gewürztraminer in the blend was apparent immediately: it exhibited a bright, intense, nose of lychee and aloe, with a touch of that cold-cream characteristic typical of the Gewürztraminer grape. There were also notes of rose water and spice on the nose, which came through on the palate. The fruit on the palate, however, was quite different from the tropical, lychee-rose aroma. Although the nose of the wine lead me to assume it was going to be quite off-dry, on tasting it, I was surprised that only a very small touch of residual sugar was left in the wine, and it actually finished relatively dry, with flavours of fresh ruby red grapefruit and lemonade lingering. At $28.99 CAD, JoieFarm’s A Noble Blend is a complex, delicious wine that will delight both lovers of the most off-dry aromatic wines like myself, as well as folks who want beautiful, intense aromas without all the sweetness.

The second wine I poured was only a tiny bit sweeter than the first. At $16.99, Obsession from Ironstone Vineyards is an excellent value wine from California; it’s difficult to find a quality aromatic wine under $20. Although it was not my particular favourite, as a subjective aromatic-appreciator, it was certainly unique, interesting, and well-received. Obsession is made from the American varietal, Symphony, which was created in California in 1948 by crossing the two Vitis vinifera grapes, Grenache Gris and Muscat of Alexandria. The nose is intensely floral, and very uniquely so. I often smell rose, or lilac, or jasmine, or even violet in a wine, but Obsession smelled of large, ‘polleny’ garden flowers like daffodils and lilies. There was also a layer of something sweet on the nose; it reminded me of lemon custard or crème brûlée. The intense floral note came through on the palate, and was complimented nicely with vibrant acidity and buttery richness that made the unique floral character quite delectable. Indeed, Ironstone’s Obsession was the most-purchased wine of the tasting.

The third and final wine I poured proved an excellent finish to the flight. Sperling Vineyards' The Market White from Kelowna, BC, Canada is also an Alsatian-style blend like the JoieFarm, although it is considerably sweeter. The blend here is predominantly Pinot Gris with some Gewürztraminer and a smidgen of Riesling. The Market White was distinctive in this lineup because it exhibited an intense nose of exclusively fruity characteristics. Vibrant notes of orchard fruit – peaches and apricots – that one might expect from an Okanagan wine, came through on both the nose and the palate. I detected a slight note of something herbaceous, but the residual sugar and fruit characteristics of the wine gave it a delightful fruit-cocktail finish. At only $19.99 CAD, Sperling’s The Market White is wonderful as an aperitif, a dessert or cheese plate wine, or an excellent and inexpensive compliment to the spiciest of Indian and Thai cuisines.

My humble advice: don’t be afraid of a little bit of sugar. Some of the best white wines in the world are off-dry, aromatic, perfect for some difficult food pairings, and delicious!

Bula from the Jean Michel Cousteau resort in warmest, sunniest Fiji, where I am enjoying a grand prize trip won at last year’s BC Travel Writer’s Association gala, compliments of Tourism Fiji. When faced with the prospect of a week in the South Pacific, my first thought was: what wine should I bring?

The Jean Michel Cousteau resort is the perfect destination for a wine writer. Apart from being a very authentic Fijian experience, this place is a foodie’s delight, presenting a menu of beautifully presented three course meals on a fourteen-day rotation. So, if you stay two weeks you never eat the same thing twice. On Tuesdays, they prepare a Fijian feast that includes pork, chicken and lamb cooked in the lovo, a fire made in a pit in the ground lined with heat-resistant stones. Coconut milk is a key ingredient here and is made fresh daily. So with that in mind, I brought a bottle each of JoieFarm Riesling, Pentage Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, and chardonnays from Quails' Gate and Sandhill.

JMC’s Chef Raymond prepared a special menu to pair with these and we enjoyed them with two of the resort managers, Bart and Lindey, an Australian couple with keen palates for great wine.

Under a bright moon and tiki torches, we started with Kokando – walu fish drenched in coconut milk, Fiji lime, onions and chilies – and paired it with the fresh, off-dry JoieFarm 2009 Reisling. It was an inspired match, with the vivid lime flavours latching onto the Fiji lime, and the mouthwatering acidity cutting through the coconut milk like a sharp machete. The wine has a clean, juicy finish that works like a sorbet palate cleanser and leaves notes of tropical fruit and flowers.

For the Pentage Sauvignon/Semillon, Bart had the idea to pair it with local Savusavu Bay crayfish and vegetarian palusami - taro leaves saturated with coconut milk, onions, and tomato. That dish I love, with its soft texture and gentle balance of sweet and savory flavours. The Pentage, being a 2007, has gained complexity in the last couple of years, and along with its gooseberry and lime notes, had a nice herbal/grassiness that beautifully complimented the taro leaf and crayfish.

Both the Quails' Gate and Sandhill Chardonnays had ripe apple, vanilla and butterscotch notes, full bodies and long caramel finishes. They both paired nicely with our main course of filleted walu in a coconut milk sauce, taro chips and steamed otta with purple basil fresh from the resort garden. Big, rich wines for a big, rich dish. Perfect.

Vinaka (thank you) to everyone who showed us such a great time in Fiji.

Someday, I’ll be back.

Update 4/16/10: More on our Fiji adventure is now posted at Tasting Room Confidential.

Twenty years after The French Paradox came to our attention, it seems there is no end to good news about wine’s health benefits. Last week, Harvard University’s Archives of Internal Medicine published the results of a 13-year study that contradicts the age-old contention of wine being fattening and instead suggests that moderate drinkers gain less weight than teetotalers. I wonder if Jenny Craig knows this.

Red wine is also thought to boost Omega-3 fatty acids that help prevent heart attacks and strokes, and the reversatrol in grape skins supposedly fights cancer and prevents heart disease. There’s something else red wine does, but I forget. Oh yeah, the polyphynols fight the onset of Alzheimer’s. Now we have to get our heads around the idea that drinking wine with dinner will keep weight down. It’s almost too magical to be true.

Here’s a wine to kill what might ail you: The Elegant Ocker, a Shiraz/Cabernet from the folks at Kangarilla Road in Australia. It’s as big as a wine can get without being a zinfandel. In fact, the Ocker reminds me of a beefy, Amador County zin with its spicy black fruit, briary sweet oak and chewy layer of chocolate. And this wine is jammy and dense, like something that can be spread on toast, perfect with burgers as well as brownies. The color is so dark; you can paint with it.

Not only is it a mouth full, The Elegant Ocker also survives brilliantly after sitting for three days on the kitchen counter and might have lasted longer it we hadn’t finally finished it. Its durability at half full is a testament to its agability in the cellar and possibly the longevity of its drinker.

Another feel-good wine is the Zolo Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina. It’s actually more elegant than The Elegant Ocker, with much more restrained fruit and a leaner body. The black and red fruit is quite dense and slightly candied, yet there is a hint of tree bark and soil that does remind me of zinfandel. On the very long finish, you get a delightful zing of acidity that cleanses the palate and leaves a juicy dusting of black pepper. Perfect for meaty, cheesy foods like lasagna or pizza.

In fact, these wines also pair well with glazed donuts, pork rinds, mac n’ cheese, onion rings and ice cream, which, by comparison, makes them seem all the more healthy indeed.

It’s the middle of March, Spring is busting out all over, and because we know in our hearts that one big snowstorm can send our mindsets back to the frigid winter blahs, it’s time to grab a crisp white wine that practically screeches, “make hay in the sunshine.” I’m talking about sauvignon blanc, the other green grape that creates a lively refreshing quaffer to lighten up the palate and ward off the blues.

Having co-parented with cabernet franc to produce the noble cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc became a well-traveled grape. Originating from Bordeaux, SB is now grown all over the world – even Brazil – and its characteristics vary with the region. And that’s the beauty of SB: it’s a total chameleon, taking its cues from its surroundings, yet retaining its core character of freshness, fruitiness, vivaciousness. A true Springtime wine.

What’s more, sauvignon blanc is the hero dubbed the perfect compliment to the most difficult-to-pair vegetables on earth: asparagus, artichoke, radishes, avocado, leeks and green beans. Other heavenly pairings include oysters, sushi, any white fish or chicken - especially with lemon cream sauces - as well as goat, jack and chedder cheese. I find it gives dark chocolate a root beer float effect, but that’s just me.

To get a quick sense of the continental drift between SBs, I picked one each from France, Argentina, and New Zealand, and what a variety they were.

Flying Kiwi comes from the Marlbourgh region of New Zealand and has a lot of savory green pepper, though not so jalepeno-ish as many NZ SBs. Flavours of ripe mango, grapefruit and guava, and its lively acidity, make the palate dance to a mouthwatering finish. Some proceeds of Flying Kiwi go to Save the Kiwi Fund, to protect this mammalian bird with cat-like whiskers and hair-like feathers that, unlike this wine, lacks the wings to fly.

Paula is a new label of Dona Paula, wholly separate from their Los Cardos brand. Grapes are grown at the Finca Los Cerezos Estate in the Uco Valley, a cool climate which, at 1400 meters elevation, gave the grapes a vigorous confidence that emboldens its zesty fruit to leap from the glass. Excuberant notes of lime, grapefruit and gooseberry, combined with a sizzling acidity that scours the palate, makes this an excellent food wine.

Calvet touts its Limited Edition 2008 Bordeaux as a new world style, comparing it to a Loire Valley wine. The nose is subtle, with stoney citric notes, and the acidity is quite forward on a palate composed of lemon/lime, white grapefruit, flint and steel. Overall it’s the more elegant SB, the grand dame of the bunch, solid and everygreen.

Great for Spring, Sauvignon Blanc is really a wine for all seasons.

Happy St. Patty’s Day to green people everywhere.

While Vancouverites whooped it up on February 27, during the most drunken Olympics in recent history, an epic magnitude earthquake pounded the coast of Chile. At 8 point 8 on the Richter scale, it was 500 times stronger than the Haitian quake and resembled a scene from the movie, 2012. It created tsunamis that washed away swaths of coastal communities and has so far killed over 700 people. How can one think about wine in the face of this tragedy?

Although no comparison to human life, a lot of wine was lost too. According to Wines of Chile, “125 million liters, including bulk, bottled, and aging wine.” Their estimated figure is the equivalent of US$ 250 million, just 12.5% when compared with the 2009 vintage of 1.01 billion liters. A bucket in the lake, really. So, instead of worrying about them, wine industry reps are encouraging donations to the Red Cross and the Levantando Chile Fund.

Wine producing Bio Bio was the epicenter, but Maule, Colchagua and Cachapoal valleys were the worse affected. The biggest losses were at wineries with no power to pump out broken tanks and barrels. With the 2010 harvest ready to pick soon, most wineries are scrambling to get power turned on and get back to business.

Which begs the question: what will the 2010 Chilean vintage taste like? Shaken, addled, or slightly effervescent? Maybe the fruit will have more powerful flavours after having the full weight of the earth affect its development. Or, like a bottle of wine, vines could have gone into shock and aftershocks, and slowed their ripening. Scientists say the caused time to shift so the wines could have a time-tripped effect. Who knows?

The night of the earthquake, after a long day at Canada Hockey Place, I reached into my stash and pulled out a Chilean cab/syrah that I knew nothing about. Botalcura 2006 Delirio Syrah/Malbec is somewhat new, has a fun label and is reasonably priced, so I brought some home. Nothing could have tasted more comforting. It has a generous, pillowy body with sturdy backbone and the smell of a cabin in the woods complete with campfire, like coming home. Drank over the next two days, the mouthfeel softened, the blackberry, cassis and plum continued to integrate, and more pepper and spice emerged.

And each time I sipped it, I thought of the forward thinking Botalcura staff of 2006 and wondered if they'd ever imagined an 8.8 earthquake in their backyard.

So, here’s to Chile. Long may you run!