EverythingWINE

Ask any American what they know about Canadian wine and ten to one they’ll answer, Icewine. Their myopia is both a blessing and a curse. Although our amazing dry wines are largely ignored, this golden nectar is firmly understood as Canadian as maple syrup.

That is likely the response Olympic visitors had at the Inniskillin Icewine Gallery, which faces the Ice Gate sculpture at Richmond’s O Zone. There, and for the next three days, one can sample scrumptious icewines from the Okanagan Valley and the Niagara Bench – including the Olympic Commemorative Edition 2006 Vidal Icewine from Niagara.

The difference between real icewine and late harvests or Sauternes is that non-boytrisized grapes are left on the vines in sub-zero temperatures, picked as little ice balls at a minimum of 35 Brix, and crushed and fermented while still frozen. The result is a drink that is thick and sweet but clean, and has a finish that lasts all day. Good ice wine is the closest thing to nectar one can experience in the third dimension.

Canada’s home ice advantage – and the reason Canucks are number one in production – is the consistently glacial weather, climate change notwithstanding. While Inniskillin remains a gigantic producer, over the years more newcomers have dipped their toes in the ice and found gold.

Paradise Ranch Riesling Icewine was something I first tasted five years ago in California. It was one of only two Canadian wines carried in Bottle Barn, both of them icey, and comes from a winery that specializes in dessert wines. This was the icewine that hooked me on the riesling grape, all fresh and sweet with clean acidity and redolent of peach, lemon lime, and notes of tangerine. Nowadays, it makes say I wish I knew how to quit you.

'Whistler' Chardonnay Icewine is a second label of Paradise Ranch to commemorate the Winter Olympics and is made with grapes from the Similkameen Valley. Mango and honeyed apricot dominate the nose, and spicy baked apples follows through on the palate. The finish is like a warm slice of apple pie and probably tastes perfect with one.

Pentage Winery Icewine is a delectable blend of semillon, muscat, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier, beautiful balanced with Lifesaver-level sweetness. It has summery aromas of kumquat, honeyed ripe apricot, and orange marmalade, and a palate lush with mango, apricot, grapefruit, pear and orange rind, butterscotch and fig, with a lovely acidic lilt in the mid-way. The custardy finish lasts for hours, and pairs great with shortbread, cheesecake or marzipan.

So, although Canadian athletes haven’t scored as much gold metal as desired, Canada already has as more liquid gold than any other nation.

Go Canada!
 

After hearing all the reports about the Vancouver Olympic Committee taking a hard line in the protection of their official sponsors, I somewhat expected a deluge of signage at the Olympic venues. Instead, I found an amazing lack of in-your-face promotion and worry that fans are not getting the Canadian wine message.

The official 2010 wine sponsors are Jackson Triggs, Inniskillin, and Sumac Ridge. They have all released new bottlings with Olympics labels, such as the JT Esprit wines the Sumac Tribute Brut, and Inniskillin Commemorative Icewine. But what about their other wines, the ones that have been quietly delivering satisfaction before the circus came to town?

Sumac Ridge is one of the oldest producers in the Okanagan. They make great wines and lots of them. The Tribute Brut – New World Class Wines, October 31, 2009 - is an excellent bubbly, very crisp and clean with delicate citric fruit, and perfect for special occasions.

The Sumac Gewürztraminer, on the other hand, is a delicious everyday sipper, and – I was surprised to learn it’s the #1 seller in the BC liquor stores. Not much of a surprise, really. This gewürzt is fresh and lively on the nose and in the mouth. Lots of peaches, mango, and pineapple are wrapped into a crisp palate with a zesty, spicy finish. It goes with anything hot, spicy or sushified, and I mean anything.

Inniskillin is a large producer working both sides of the country – Niagara and Okanagan. One of the first Inniskillins I ever tried continues to be a favorite. The Dark Horse Vineyard Meritage is indeed dark - almost opaque in color - with long skinny legs that coat the glass. Its nose is full of chocolate, toffee, coffee, ripe black and purple fruit, spice and sweet oak. All of that continues on the palate, which is jammy and robust with a soft mouthfeel and chewy tannins, leading to a long, spicy finish. This is the ultimate cold  weather wine to cozy up with steaks, stews and rich Italian food. And chocolate, natch.

Jackson Triggs is also bi-coastal, and has received particular acclaim for their shiraz from Okanagan. JT’s Proprietors Reserve Shiraz is totally opaque and actually tastes black. Black berry, black cherry, black licorice all the way, plus ripe plum, caramel and sweet oak. The tannins are soft and it has a juicy, lip smacking finish of lingering toffee. Well built and solid enough to satisfy any syrup sucker – including Stephen Colbert.

Further proof that Canada excels at more than ice wine. See you at the games!
 

Every year, just before February 14th, people scurry to find the perfect token of affection for their loved one. But what about the other 364 days? Personally, I go with the Rodgers and Hart classic, My Funny Valentine, that Each day is Valentines Day, so I cooked my Valentine dinner on February 10th.

I assembled the most aphrodisiac food and wine I could find. Top of the list: oysters - high in zinc for increasing testosterone levels. Halfway through eating them garnished with mango salsa, hubby and I agreed - they work.

To pair with oysters, nothing is more romantic than a good sparkler. Blue Mountain Brut was an easy choice. As a cult favorite, Blue Mountain wines were always difficult to obtain, but thanks to the current recession, they are now available in stores. After their upcoming gold label bottles appears, I hope they Don’t change a hair for me.

This NV Brut has such a fine mousse and exudes aromas of toasty lemon and green apple. The palate is crisp and fresh with tart apple and citric notes leading to a dry, clean finish that leaves a tingle of lemon. It was so perfect with our oysters; we almost jumped into bed that moment. But I said, Stay little Valentine, stay.

For our main course, I baked-broiled chicken thighs in a Mediterranean-style sauce and topped them with olives and another aphrodisiac, avocado, cut into heart shapes.

As an accompaniment: Mon Coeur 2007, romantic in name and effect. This Cotes-du-Rhone Syrah from ancient family-owned winery J.L. Chave is wild and lusty in its approach and hearty in delivery, perfect for prowling any lover. It has luscious aromas of spicy red, black, and purple fruit, with notes of cola, licorice and lavender. The velvety mouthfeel is deep and complex with chewy blackberries and black cherry, silky tannins, chocolate, earth, anise, and brown spices. Savoring the sarsaparilla/plum sauce finish, hubby asked me, Is your mouth a little weak?

For dessert, dark chocolate. My favorite is Dove and not just because the name is one letter from “Love." As expected, it melted smoothly with Mon Coeur, and created a plum pudding flavour. The Brut complemented Dove too, but from a crispier, root beer float angle. They both Made me smile from my heart.

Funny is sexy and My Funny Valentine has more amusing, borderline insulting lyrics to learn. Singing them would be a very funny Valentine, indeed.

Super Bowl Sunday, just two days away, is a time to tailgate on the couch, slog Molsons and crunch Doritos while clapping and cursing your way through this great American gladiatorama. A half time show with British Invasion rockers The Who may inspire a 30 minute dance party as well as indulgence in dark, bitter ales. But if hops and barley are not your thing, what wines are appropriate for a Super Bowl game? Indeed, what wine would Pete drink?

Not a deep thinker, that’s for sure.

Consider the most common football foods: pizza, nachos, chips, dips, cheese, prawns, chicken wings, barbeque ribs. That’s a lot of oily, spicy, acidic, high protein food to pair.

If you’re a die-hard Saints or Colts fan, go ahead and spring for real champagne. It always tastes sweeter when your team wines. For the rest of us, the clean, delicate Segura Viudas Reserva Brut is a sure bet. Crisp, dry rieslings are great for cutting through the cholesterol and refreshing the palate. The fresh, lively See Ya Later Ranch Unleashed Riesling, with its lovely citrus and apple notes, is a forward pass with potato chips. 

For a red that’s light as the feet you're watching, a fruity pinot noir will go down without leaving cleat marks on the tongue. The Rodney Strong 2005 Russian River Pinot Noir has a medium but round body with toasty red fruit and gentle tannins and will play with almost anything on your food field. At six dollars off it’s a touchdown.

If you’re looking for beefier team players, a spicy zinfandel or meaty syrah can handily tackle the heat of wings, pork and sausage. Zynthesis 2007 Old Vine Zinfandel has ripe, spicy black fruit and enough brawn to drop kick any strong flavours. For a full mouthfeel of smoky fleshy pluminess, Don Miguel Gascon Syrah can defend itself against the feistiest of barbeque sauces.

Happy Super Bowl Sunday, everybody. Go Saints.

But getting back to the halftime lineup, I have long thought that Who survivors Townsend and Daltry should merge with remaining Beatles McCartney and Starr and go on tour as the Whotles.

Who’s with me?