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RSSCanadian Icewine is Pure Gold
Ask any American what they know about Canadian wine and ten to one they’ll answer, Icewine. Their myopia is both a blessing and a curse. Although our amazing dry wines are largely ignored, this golden nectar is firmly understood as Canadian as maple syrup.
That is likely the response Olympic visitors had at the Inniskillin Icewine Gallery, which faces the Ice Gate sculpture at Richmond’s O Zone. There, and for the next three days, one can sample scrumptious icewines from the Okanagan Valley and the Niagara Bench – including the Olympic Commemorative Edition 2006 Vidal Icewine from Niagara.
The difference between real icewine and late harvests or Sauternes is that non-boytrisized grapes are left on the vines in sub-zero temperatures, picked as little ice balls at a minimum of 35 Brix, and crushed and fermented while still frozen. The result is a drink that is thick and sweet but clean, and has a finish that lasts all day. Good ice wine is the closest thing to nectar one can experience in the third dimension.
Canada’s home ice advantage – and the reason Canucks are number one in production – is the consistently glacial weather, climate change notwithstanding. While Inniskillin remains a gigantic producer, over the years more newcomers have dipped their toes in the ice and found gold.
Paradise Ranch Riesling Icewine was something I first tasted five years ago in California. It was one of only two Canadian wines carried in Bottle Barn, both of them icey, and comes from a winery that specializes in dessert wines. This was the icewine that hooked me on the riesling grape, all fresh and sweet with clean acidity and redolent of peach, lemon lime, and notes of tangerine. Nowadays, it makes say I wish I knew how to quit you.
'Whistler' Chardonnay Icewine is a second label of Paradise Ranch to commemorate the Winter Olympics and is made with grapes from the Similkameen Valley. Mango and honeyed apricot dominate the nose, and spicy baked apples follows through on the palate. The finish is like a warm slice of apple pie and probably tastes perfect with one.
Pentage Winery Icewine is a delectable blend of semillon, muscat, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier, beautiful balanced with Lifesaver-level sweetness. It has summery aromas of kumquat, honeyed ripe apricot, and orange marmalade, and a palate lush with mango, apricot, grapefruit, pear and orange rind, butterscotch and fig, with a lovely acidic lilt in the mid-way. The custardy finish lasts for hours, and pairs great with shortbread, cheesecake or marzipan.
So, although Canadian athletes haven’t scored as much gold metal as desired, Canada already has as more liquid gold than any other nation.
Go Canada!