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Forget what you heard in the movie, Sideways, Northern California and Oregon are really where it’s at for great pinot noir. At Everything Wine on Wednesday night, Vintage Room Consultant Chris Sharpe poured a flight of pinots from Sonoma County and Williamette Valley, and the group didn’t need to be Miles Raymond to appreciate their qualities.
Because of my Olympic job training, I couldn’t go to this tasting, so I sent my intrepid associate Ivana to collect notes and photos.
She said Chris connected pinot noir's fickle character in the vineyard to its fickle aromas in the glass. He described the Oregon “cool climate” pinots as having fresh red fruit, tomato, and an herbaceousness often remedied by the use of new French oak barrels. Riper and darker fruit and more floral aromatics, he said, define the Californians. These, he contrasted with Burgundies, which are often marked by barnyard notes.
All of the Oregon pinots poured came from the mighty Williamette Valley. Brooks Janus 2006 had a spicy sausagey, earthy effect with nice acidity and a powerful mouthfeel, finishing with a slightly sweet note.
Panther Creek 2006 Shea Vineyard opens with coffee, toffee, and caramel on the nose, turning earthy on the palate with cherry and caramel notes. A long, warm finish brings together all the flavours.
The Andrew Rich 2005 is full of cherry and coco beans, plus a little soil and even a touch of pomegranate. Beautiful acidity on the soft plate and a fresh, clean finish make it excellent with food.
Where Chris found the Firesteed Cellars 1998 Citation is anyone’s guess, but it sounds like a treat. Ivana said, “the flavours were so integrated it was hard to pick them out.” Brick coloured, of course, she also got subtle notes of charred cherry piecrust, and found its acid still lively.
South, to my old ‘hood, I was pleased to hear that Dutton-Goldfield’s Dutton Ranch 2006 Freestone Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley, made such a big impression on the group. The aromatics are undeniably “girly” with pretty vanilla, cherry and violets, which carry through the mouth and finish. One attendee said it tastes like a “Christmas spice orange peel cake”.
La Crema is a big name in pinot and their entry-level Sonoma Coast Pinot is immensely popular. This 2006 Russian River release is yet more full and rich, with spicy ripe red and black cherries and the earthiness of a redwood forest floor.
Anthill Farms 2006 Tina Marie Vineyard is made from grapes grown in the Green Valley sub-appellation of RRV, on the edge of a fog belt. This 2006 Pinot is all red cherry, red currants, delicate acidity and hot soil.
Finally, from the Sonoma Coast came Flowers 2005 Andreen-Gale Vineyard Pinot. This vintage showed different aromas with every sniff, Ivana said, and had a complex mix of red cherry, tomato, herbs, and a whiff of salty soil.
While this is only a thin slice of American Burgundies, I’d be curious to know if you have any favourites from the south, especially from other regions. What pinots make your heart break with joy, and why?